shiplap girl's bathroom reveal

Wednesday, July 1, 2015

Last week I shared with you Sam's bathroom makeover, and today it's Izzy's turn!


Before we get into it, I want to show you a before pic.  Izzy's bath had the same thing going on as Sam's did.  It was new, it was clean, but it was builder's boring.


I basically did the exact same thing in her bath as I did in his.  Shiplap up 2/3rds of the walls, kept the same wall color, framed out the existing builder's grade mirror, replaced the standard towel bar with a hook, and added knobs to the vanity.  



Izzy's favorite part of her bathroom is the art, especially the adorable bunny print above the toilet.  When I found this "you make my heart smile" print I had to have it.  It's something I've said to Izzy's almost every day of her life.



The shower curtain was a DIY I'm excited to share with you later this week.   It's my favorite part of her bath.  I took Izzy with me looking for shower curtain options and we both ended up pulling this print out at the same time.  Miss Opinionated and I rarely see eye to eye lately so this was a definite sign.  It's such an awesome print!  




SOURCES: wall color - PPG Palamino Grey . shiplap color - PPG White Chip . DIY shower curtain (tutorial coming soon) . lights . black knobs . shelfbunny print . you make my heart smile print . mirrored framed (discontinued - similar)towel hook  (discontinued - similar) . nesting baskets . soap dispenser (Homegoods) . striped rug . wood panels for shiplap

Stay tuned for the shower curtain DIY.  It will open up so many possibilities for your bathrooms!


shiplap boy's bathroom reveal

Thursday, June 25, 2015

I started in on the kids' bathrooms back in February.  Shiplap was the name of the game.  I'm convinced there isn't much that a little shiplap can't fix.  Amiright?!  While I had that part knocked out in a week for both bathrooms, it took me forever to get around to doing the little stuff like adding knobs.  Today I wanted to share with you guys Sam's bathroom!


Before I share the rest of the photos I want to show you where this bathroom began.  Plain 'ol builder's bath.  Nothing wrong with it.  It was brand new and clean, but boooooriiiiing.



I wanted to give it some character and not spend a bunch of money.  To do so I added shiplap to the bottom 2/3rds of the walls.  It changed everything!  I then salvaged the builder's mirror, framed it out with 1x2's, and stained it grey.  Lighting and fixtures stayed the same.  Everything else was just adding accessories.  The wall color even stayed the same, it's just hard to tell since the before photos were at night with the lights on.  



I took the towel bar down from over the toilet (those always make me crazy over a toilet), and in the reflection of the mirror you can see his new towel hook.  A rhino head I had bought a while ago and never did anything with.  Here's to hoarding animal heads!





These cup pulls were another purchase I had made years ago, but never had a home for until now.


Ok. so public service announcement time.  You've heard people talk about how important it is to hang your window curtains higher, well the same goes for shower curtains.  In this first before and after you can see what a huge difference it makes.  The room looks so much taller now.  The chevron shower curtain was a repurpose of Sam's old window curtains I had made for his nursery.  You can see how I made the print here.




TIPS ON SHIPLAP

There are a ton of tutorials on DIY shiplap and a ton of different materials you can use to get the look.  I didn't use a particular tutorial, but I did search them all out to see what types of materials people were using.  

Material: I decided to go with a thin 5mm sanded plywood.  For two bathrooms (I also did the same in Izzy's larger bathroom) I used 5 panels.  Each panel measured 48"x96" and was under $14.  Score!  To save me from lugging out our table saw I had the folks at Lowes cut down my strips for me to 6".  HUGE time saver.  I also purchased some 1x2 pieces of pine to finish off the top of the shiplap.

Prep: What ever material you decide to use, make sure to measure out where your studs are so you can be sure you're nailing into them as you go.  I recommend using a stud finder because sometimes those things aren't spaced out evenly.  Shocking I know (grumbling to myself about our builder).  

  
Spacing: A nickel was the perfect spacer for the look I was after.  Grab a few of those because they'll go flying or missing and you'll want extras laying close by.


Starting Point: As far as where to start, top down or bottom up, I did neither ;D I wanted to make as few strange cuts or notches as possible so I started my first board on top of the sink back splash and worked my way up and then back down.


Outlets: Since your wall will be thicker where the shiplap is placed, your outlets will need to be pulled out further so the cover plates will fit correctly.  I failed to get a photo of it but you can find outlet spacers to solve that problem at a home improvement store.


Cost: All in I don't even think this complete makeover cost $75.  That's with primer, paint and accessories.  Not bad at all!


SOURCES: wall color - PPG Palamino Grey . shiplap color - PPG White Chip . DIY chevron print curtain . lights . cup pulls (Hobby Lobby clearance) . black knobs . owl print . rhino head as towel hook (Homegoods) . soap dispenser (Homegoods) . striped bath towel (TJMaxx) . grey hand towel . wood bowlwood panels for shiplap

DIY built in washer + dryer

Tuesday, June 23, 2015

I've been meaning to share with you guys how I built in the washer and dryer for a few weeks now.  Summer is good for many things.  Being a productive blogger it is not.  I don't know if I should call this project a built in washer and dryer or a washer and dryer folding table.  I guess it's both.


This has been such an awesome addition to our laundry room makeover.  One of my constant battles with doing laundry was having something rattle off the top of the machines and fall into the abyss on the sides, in between, or behind.  Yes, I could have not put things on top, but it was my catch all and that's just the way it was.  I also had problems with the pedestal Mike and I built several years back.  While it was easier pulling things out of the machines while they were raised, I couldn't lean over them to get to the cabinet above without pulling out a step stool.  And I'm not short.  So to the curb the pedestal went and I've never been happier!

Since every laundry room is different and the heights of machines vary, I'll just tell you guys the sizes of wood pieces I used to build mine but will spare you measurements.

WHAT YOU'LL NEED:

  • 2x2's for supports
  • 1x6's for front side facings (can use smaller or wider pieces depending on your needs)
  • 1x2 for front top facing
  • Pine panels for table top
  • large L bracket (may not need, explained below)
  • wood glue
  • wood screws
  • finishing nails (I used a nail gun)
  • level
STEP ONE:  Attach your 2x2 support pieces to the wall.  Two pieces (one for each side) will go horizontally on the sides to hold the table top and two pieces (one for each side) will go vertically so the side facing will have something to attach to.  Screw them into studs or use anchors if you don't meet up with studs.  Make sure you are level!


STEP TWO:  Attach your 1x6 (or smaller/larger depending on your needs) facing pieces to the front side supports with wood glue and finishing nails.  You'll notice at the bottom of my piece I had to notch out an area to accommodate the baseboard.  This was later filled in with wood putty, sanded, and caulked.


STEP THREE:  Attach the 1x2 across the top of the side facing pieces with wood glue and finishing nails.  If needed, you can also attach another support piece to the back wall to support the table top.  You'll notice my back support sits up higher than the side supports.  This is to support a removable shelf I made to hide the hook ups.  If you're outlets and hookups sit below where your top table piece will hit, then you won't need this to be placed higher.  It will sit at the same height as your side supports.


STEP FOUR:  Depending on your situation, you may not need this step.  Since I was unable to have the top of my table rest on the back wall support (due to the hookups and electrical being placed high) I added a large L bracket I found at the home improvement store's closet department.  I attached it to the back of the wall into studs so that it would support the center of the table top.



STEP FIVE:  Attach the table top.  I used two pine panels for my table top.  One piece remained 20" deep and the second was cut down to 6" deep to fill in the space towards the back of the wall.  The 20" deep piece was glued and nailed into place up front with a 1" overhang.  The shallow 6" deep piece was placed but left unattached so that it could be removed to access electrical and hookups. 

I realized after the fact that I didn't take photos of the smaller unattached back piece at this point so disregard the finished state ;)  Here it is without the back piece.


And with the unattached 6" deep back piece.  It is supported mostly by the back L bracket and then also the side supports.


STEP SIX:  To hide the hook ups and electrical outlets I made a T-shaped ledge out of the remaining panel.  It is also not attached to the wall so that it can be removed if need be.  The top of the ledge sits on top of the support piece on the back wall.



This gif shows how the unattached pieces come together.


STEP SEVEN:  Finishing work!  Fill holes with wood filler, sand it all down, caulk the side pieces where it meets with the walls and floor to give it a finished built in look, and then paint and stain.


Now you can rejoice in no more socks getting lost between the cracks!  And, you've just gained a huge amount of counter space to fold laundry on.  Or stash more junk.  I don't judge.



Click here to see more of the laundry room reveal!



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